Timber Joints - Box
butt joint - rebate timber joint - housing
joint - mitre joint - tips
It is often required to build timber boxes in diy and there are a number of simple joints which can be used to make them. Do
not just think of a box as a box, they are the basic form for drawers, cupboards and larger pieces of furniture both free-standing
and built in.
Butt

The area of contact for this basic of all joints is limited to the end of the one piece of timber that butts against the surface
of the second piece. It is the weakest type of joint, but is the easiest to make.
The
butt joint can be strengthened by fitting a block of timber within the corner either just glued or secured into each side. Strengthening
blocks are usually either triangular or square, the triangular blocks tend to have a larger surface area to each side for gluing
purposes and look neater. These blocks can be used to strengthen any of the box joints shown on this page.
Rebate
.
The shared area of contact is increased by joining one piece of wood to a rebate cut out of the end of one piece of timber
at a corner. This type of joint construction also allows nails or screws to be used on both pieces at right angles to each other,
creating an even stronger joint.
The edge of the rebate is marked on the appropriate piece of timber and the depth is also marked around the sides and end. The
edge should be cut down to the required depth with a tenon saw and the surplus material removed using a chisel or a router set
to the appropriate depth. The depth should be cut twice, the first time to remove the bulk of the material, the second time to
carefully take it down to the correct level.
Housing

A channel is cut into one piece of wood so that a second piece of wood fits into it. The channel should be no deeper than one-third
of the thickness of the piece of wood. The amount of timber to be left between the channel and the end, should be at least the
width of the channel.
Many drawers are constructed with housing joints as they withstand stress from several directions.
The sides of the housing channel are marked on the appropriate piece of timber and the depth is also marked on both edges of
the timber. The sides should be cut with a tenon saw and the surplus material removed using a chisel or a router set to the appropriate
depth. The depth should be cut twice, the first time to remove the bulk of the material, the second time to carefully take it down
to the correct level.
Mitre
For a mitre joint, the ends of two pieces of wood are under cut at a 45 degree angle. The mitre, which is only
marginally stronger than the butt, is used widely for appearance sake as the joint conceals the exposed end grain of both pieces
of timber.
They require precision 45 degree cuts so that the right angle can be accurately made, it is recommended that the
angles are cut using a power circular saw with a suitable guide of jig for accuracy. Using a Jig Saw or handsaw are liable to produce
some inaccuracies which will ruin the visual appearance and give a weak joint as the adjacent pieces of timber will not fit very
well.
Tips
- Decide upon the 'presentation face' of each piece of timber - it may not matter which face this is but you need to make
all depth measurements from the same side of the finished box.
- Mark out all the joints before you start any sawing.
- Always cut on the waste side of the marked line.
- Measure twice (or thrice) and then cut accurately once.
- Use glasspaper to smooth each joint and remove any splinters.
- Assemble the joints using a good quality wood adhesive; apply it to all mating faces. Wipe away any surplus adhesive before
it dries.
- Where the thickness of the timber allows, secure each joint with a nail or two, drive them in at an angle so they lock the
timbers together.
- Clamp or apply pressure to each joint until the adhesive has dried, in humid conditions allow additional time.
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butt joint - rebate timber joint - housing
joint - mitre joint - tips