Chain link fence (3 of 3)
erecting the straining wires and fencing.

1. When the posts are firmly set, unroll the coil of straining wire and feed it along/through the posts. The number of line wires required depends on the height of the fence, as a guide:
   
   • Less than 1.2 m (4 ft) 2 lines
   • 1.2 m (4 ft) to 2.25 m (7 ft 6in) 3 lines

   Typical Fixings

   
2. Erecting the straining wires depends on the type of post being used:
   • Concrete and Timber Posts - ensure that the straining wires are evenly spaced between top and bottom edge of the fencing (about 100cm down from the top of the fencing up 100cm up from the bottom). Loosely fit the end eyebolts and stretcher bar cleats with nuts (with large washers on both sides of the post), use two cleats and eyebolts with ring-nuts on intermediate straining posts.
     Either feed the wire through holes in the posts or along the fence side. If feeding along the side, loosely tie the wire at the correct height, or with timber, attach the wire with staples - do not fully trap the wire at this point.
     Tie one end of each straining wire to a ring bolt, at the other end of each wire, apply as much tension as possible and tie that end to the eyebolt. Strain all wires by using the back nut or ring-nut. When the required tension has been achieved, lock each eyebolt by tightening the front nut, ensure that the cleats are correctly positioned.
     Where the wire is along the side of the posts, either hammer the staples fully home on timber posts, or on cement posts, go along and using short pieces of straining wire, secure the wire at each post as shown right.
     
     
   • While eyebolts may be used on angle iron posts, it is better to use winding brackets.
     
     
3. Starting at one end, stand the roll of fencing on end with the exposed edge against the post.
   
4. Pass a stretcher bar through the first row of meshes and secure the bar to the cleats on the post.
5. Keeping the roll of fencing off of the ground as you move, unroll the chain link along the line of the fence pulling the mesh as tight as possible as you move along. If the fencing is allowed to go slack, the links can move sideways, out of position, so keep an eye on the ends as it is unrolled, if you see anything misaligned, stop and rectify it before moving along. Temporarily secure the fence to the top straining wire using string at intervals of about 2 metres (6 ft). Stop at the first straining post.
6. Go back to the start and attach the fencing to the straining wires using tie wire or clips. Secure at about every 150mm (6 in) on the top wire and about every 450 mm (1 ft 6 in) on the middle and bottom wires - remove the temporary ties as you go. As you work along the fencing, keep applying horizontal tension to it. Ensure that each tie-wire or clip is positioned the same distance from the top/bottom of the fence; count the number of mesh to be consistent. Tie or clip the fence underneath the top of a mesh so that the wire/tie supports the fence.
7. When you have worked back to the straining post, insert a stretcher bar down the second or third mesh from the cleat position. Loosely tie the bar to the cleats. Go back to the start and work along applying a little bit more horizontal tension - when you have finished this, the stretcher bar should be within reach of the cleats, and can be attached to them.
8. Repeat from 3 above between the next two straining posts.
9. At each change of direction of the fence, sever the roll by untwisting the spiral next to the stretching bar, do this before you insert the stretcher bar.
10. Finally, if you are burying the bottom of the fence, go along the previously dug trench and arrange the fencing, you may decide to peg-down the bottom edge or weigh it down with rubble before replacing the soil.

Joining two rolls of fencing

If roll of chain link fencing runs out before the end of a run, join the rolls by removing a spiral from the end of the roll to be joined on to. This is easily achieved by releasing the ends of the first spiral and winding the spiral along until it is fully removed. Bring together the end of one roll with the beginning of the other roll and reinsert the removed spiral but this time 'knitting' the two rolls together - when fully inserted, close the ends of the spiral which was removed.

Splitting a roll of fencing

Just release the top and bottom ends of the spiral where the split is required and wind the spiral along until it is fully removed.